Groomsmen Attire Guide: Suit or Morning Coat?

Being a groomsman at a wedding is an immense honor. It means you're one of the most important people to the couple, someone they trust to accompany them on one of the most special days of their life. With this great honor comes a small responsibility: getting the look right. Your attire should not only reflect the importance of the event but also show respect and affection for the couple.

You've probably had the big question: should I wear a suit or a morning coat? Don't worry, it's a very common question. The choice may seem complicated, but in reality, it's simpler than you think. Think of this guide as that chat with an expert friend who helps you resolve all your style doubts. Together, we're going to break down each option so you feel confident, comfortable, and perfect for the occasion. Let's do this!

Understanding the dress code

Before deciding, it's fundamental to understand the two main options and when it's appropriate to wear each. Both the suit and the morning coat are elegant options, but they belong to different levels of formality.

What is a suit?

A suit is a two or three-piece set (jacket, trousers, and sometimes waistcoat) made from the same fabric. It's the most versatile and common option for formal events. Its great advantage is that it adapts to different wedding styles, from the most relaxed to the most sophisticated, and can be worn both day and night.

What is a morning coat?

The morning coat is the highest-etiquette daytime attire. Its origin dates back to 19th-century England, where gentlemen wore it for horseback riding in the mornings. It's composed of three key pieces that aren't made from the same fabric:

• Tailcoat: The characteristic jacket, shorter in front with long, rounded tails in back.
• Trousers: Generally classic cut with fine vertical stripe pattern (known as herringbone or diplomatic stripe).
• Waistcoat: Can be single or double-breasted, and is the piece that allows adding a touch of color and personality.

The golden rule: The morning coat is used exclusively for daytime weddings, meaning those whose ceremony takes place before 6 or 7 PM. If the wedding is evening, the suit is the correct option, or in cases of extreme formality, the tuxedo (though the latter is usually reserved for the groom and best man).

Detailed guide for wearing a suit

If the wedding is in the evening, less formal, or you simply prefer the comfort and versatility of a suit, here's everything you need to know to look impeccable.

Suit styles, colors, and fabrics

• Styles: You can opt for a two-piece suit (jacket and trousers) or three-piece (adding a waistcoat). The three-piece suit adds extra formality and elegance, ideal for a groomsman. Jackets can be single-breasted (one or two buttons) or double-breasted (more formal and traditional).
• Colors: As a groomsman, your goal is to look elegant without stealing the spotlight from the groom. The safest and most sophisticated colors are navy blue and charcoal grey (or dark grey). They're versatile, appropriate for any time of day, and combine easily. For spring or summer daytime weddings, medium grey or lighter blue are also excellent options.
• Forbidden colors for groomsmen: Avoid extremes. Black is generally reserved for funerals or evening gala events with tuxedo. A completely black suit during daytime can look too somber and harsh. On the other hand, stay away from colors that are too flashy or light, like white, beige, or very pale pastel tones, which compete with the couple's look.
• Fabrics: Worsted wool is the most versatile and elegant option year-round. For summer weddings, linen or cotton are cooler, but keep in mind they wrinkle easily. A wool and silk blend can add subtle, sophisticated shine.

Shirt and tie combinations

• Shirt: The infallible choice is a good-quality white cotton shirt. It's the perfect base that brightens the face and makes any tie stand out. A very pale sky blue shirt is also a classic, elegant alternative. Make sure the collar is suitable for wearing a tie and that the sleeves show approximately one centimeter below the jacket sleeve.
• Tie: This is where you can add your personal touch. Choose a silk tie with a discreet pattern (micro-motifs, subtle diagonal stripes, or solid color with texture). Colors should complement the suit. With a navy suit, burgundy, bottle green, or even mustard ties work very well. With a grey suit, options are almost endless: blues, pinks, purples... Make sure the knot is proportionate to your neck and the shirt collar.

Shoes and accessories

• Shoes: Black leather Oxford shoes are the most formal and safe bet. Derby shoes, slightly less formal, are also acceptable. If you're wearing a blue suit, dark brown shoes can add a very interesting style touch, especially for daytime weddings. Always with long socks covering the calf and matching the trousers or shoes!
• Accessories: Less is more. A white linen or silk pocket square, placed straight in the jacket pocket, adds a touch of distinction. A classic wristwatch with leather strap and a thin belt matching the shoes are the only accessories you need.

Detailed guide for wearing a morning coat

If the wedding is daytime, high-etiquette, and the groom and best man are wearing morning coats, it's very likely you as a groomsman should too. It's the maximum expression of daytime elegance.

Morning coat components

• Tailcoat: The centerpiece. The traditional and most formal color is black. For less protocol-heavy weddings or in hot weather, charcoal grey is a very elegant alternative. It must fit you perfectly in the shoulders.
• Waistcoat: This is the piece that allows you to personalize the ensemble. For a groomsman, a waistcoat in pearl grey or a buff (beige) tone is a classic, appropriate choice. Brighter colored or patterned waistcoats are usually reserved for the groom. Can be single or double-breasted (the latter is more formal).
• Trousers: Traditional morning coat trousers are worsted grey wool with fine vertical stripes in white or black. The cut should be classic, without pleats and with no cuff at the bottom.

Allowed combinations and accessories

• Shirt: Always white, with spread or point collar, and French cuffs for cufflinks. Fabric quality is fundamental.
• Tie: Must be silk and, traditionally, worn with a Windsor knot. The most classic color is silver grey, but you can opt for other discreet colors that harmonize with the waistcoat, like navy blue, burgundy, or dark green. Avoid ties that are too narrow or with garish patterns.
• Shoes: The only correct option is black leather Oxford shoes, plain and without any type of ornament or broguing. They must be impeccably polished.
• Accessories: Cufflinks are essential. Opt for a classic design in silver or gold. The top hat and gloves are traditional morning coat accessories, but their use has declined. If you decide to wear them, the hat should be black and gloves grey suede, and they're only worn when traveling outdoors. A tie pin is a refined detail that secures the tie to the waistcoat.

Common mistakes to avoid

Whether you choose a suit or morning coat, there are certain mistakes that can ruin your look. Take note to avoid them!

• Fit is king: An expensive suit or morning coat that fits poorly will look worse than an economical one that fits like a glove. Pay special attention to the shoulders, sleeve length, and trousers. Don't hesitate to visit a tailor for necessary alterations.
• Inappropriate accessories: Forget sporty watches, flashy sunglasses (during the ceremony), belts with large buckles, or cartoon character ties. Elegance resides in discretion.
• Neglected shoes: Dirty or worn shoes can ruin the most elegant ensemble. Make sure they're clean and polished. White athletic socks are strictly forbidden.
• Ignoring the dress code: The most important rule is respecting the couple's wishes. If you're not sure what to wear, the best thing you can do is ask the groom directly. He'll appreciate your interest in getting it right and will give you the most reliable guidance.

Your role, your style

At the end of the day, what's most important is that you feel comfortable and confident with your choice. Being a groomsman is about enjoying, being moved, and standing by your loved ones. Your clothes are simply a way to honor that moment. Whether you decide on the versatility of a well-cut suit or the solemnity of an impeccable morning coat, the key is in caring for details and wearing it with confidence.

For more tips on groom and groomsmen style, check our guide on the perfect tie knot and discover how to complete your look with elegance.